We first met Pak Yogi at a wedding in Ringo's hometown - his Niece was marrying Ringo's Nephew. So now we are family he is happy to introduce us to all the craft folk he knows.

Singaraja is the second city of Bali. The forgotten city, it was, until 1974 the capital city, squashed between the sea and steep banks of mountains behind it was difficult to build an airport. So eventually the capital was moved to Denpasar (which translates as the Southern Market). Singaraja translates as Lion Kingdom.. and is famous for the wild freedom fighters who, like lions, lived in the jungles and forests above the city and fought for independence from the colonial Dutch in the 1940's.. 

We took an unusual root across the island in order to call and see a supplier on the way, this took us over one of the highest bridges in Indonesia  (we stopped to walk across it).  And then up high over the mountain range that hangs over the North coast. It turns quite cool at the top, but warms up fast as you drop down the steep windy roads through the clove forests. Ringo tells me that in the clove forests are some of the oldest villages in Bali where aboriginal people still live - the original inhabitants of Bali. I have heard that in this area farmers distil clove oil directly. We ask in a few village shops if they know about any distillery - eventually one old lady tells us her daughter collects fallen leaves and twigs and takes them to a place in a forest clearing. After asking several people and turning down small tracks we find the place. We can smell the scent of cloves heavy in the air and then see a set of large tanks filled with steaming murky liquid. Three guys are working there running a rustic but effective clove oil distillery.. they are happy to show us around, the manager is actually from Java and Bondhan can speak his local language.