In Fez we had decided to spend two nights to check out the town and see what handicrafts might be found. Research suggested ceramics.. but we had no idea if that was all and even where to start.

Fez they claim has one of the world's biggest Medinas', a maze of market streets, narrow passages and hidden secrets. There are over 9000 streets and more shops than you could count selling everything imaginable. I chose a Riad hotel in the heart of the Medina and they sent a car to the airport to bring us to the hotel.

Fez airport is the total opposite of Manchester airport. Modern, small, friendly and very efficient. From the plane to the Passport hall directly where our covid checks where done in the queue by friendly efficient staff. After passport control our luggage was waiting, and a friendly guy with a board with our names greeted as we emerged. The car ride to Fez was also a surprise, beautiful villa's line the streets and new Fez is a modern city with a park style avenue though the centre, green tidy and with impressive fountains.  

Fez is really twin towns, the new and the ancient. Totally opposite places. The car dropped us at a carpark on the edge of the walled city where a porter was waiting with a trolly for our luggage, it's five minutes walk into the Madina to the Raid where we were staying. Down tiny passages between massive high ancient walls, out into wider passages lined with traders selling shoes, ceramics, musical instruments, leather.. back into another alleyway, round dogleg bends and finally arriving at an ornate heavy wooden door. Inside.. again totally opposite. 

From the stark mud coloured passage ways to a beautiful sunbathed courtyard, birds singing in trees surrounding a small pool. A lovely French lady was waiting with sweet mint tea and a warm welcome. Watch out for the tortoises she said they come indoor as well, and then she explained the secrets to not getting lost in the Medina and gave us tips on how to behave during Ramadan.

My room was two floors up with a balcony looking over the courtyard, and full of the type of homeware and handicrafts that we would love to stock at AW.  I would highly recommend this small hotel.. check it out here: Ryad Salamanda 

My sense is that in ancient times successful traders in the souk buying and selling goods along the trade route into and out of Africa made fortunes which for the sake of modesty they hid behind huge walls and built these opulent hidden worlds. 

Fez is relatively gentle compared to the hustle and hard sell of Marrakech, or maybe it's just the after effects of the covid era and or Ramadan.. but people are polite and peaceful greeting each other as they pass in the street. Even the informal street guides who help the lost find their way didn't demand tips or argue for more like we found in Marrakech. It's cool this time of year and lots of local guys where a kind of wooly monks habit with a peaked hood. It seems that when you wear this you walk differently arms straight down and a kind of staggered gait as though moving with important purpose. See our small first impressions video, spot the habit guys more interesting than the famous Blue Gate.. Go to Fez it's nice these days.